What you need to know before you start

Clear tail lights on an R34 Nissan Skyline replace the factory red lenses with transparent or smoked polycarbonate covers, letting the brake light bulbs show through without the red tint. The swap itself takes 30 to 45 minutes per side and requires no welding or permanent modification — you remove the old lens assembly, install the new one, and reconnect the wiring. The main decision is whether to buy a complete bolt-on assembly (which includes the housing and lens as one unit) or just the lens cover (which fits over your existing housing).

R34 models from 1999 to 2002 all use the same basic tail light mounting, though early and late models have slight differences in the housing shape. Before ordering, confirm your model year and whether you want a full assembly replacement or a lens-only swap, because the installation steps and parts cost differ significantly between the two approaches.

Key Takeaways

  • Clear tail lights bolt directly onto your R34 without cutting or welding, using the same mounting points as the factory lights.
  • You can buy either a complete assembly (housing plus lens) or just a lens cover that fits over your existing housing, and the choice affects both cost and installation difficulty.
  • The job requires a Phillips screwdriver, a panel removal tool, and about 30 minutes per side, with no special tools or mechanical experience needed.
  • After installation, test both the brake lights and running lights before driving, because a loose bulb or reversed connector will leave you without brake lights.

Choosing between a full assembly and a lens-only replacement

A full assembly replacement means buying the entire tail light housing with the clear lens already installed. You unbolt the old housing completely, disconnect the wiring harness, bolt on the new one, and reconnect. This approach is cleaner and leaves no gaps, but costs more (typically $150 to $300 per side depending on the brand) and requires you to transfer your bulbs from the old housing to the new one.

A lens-only replacement means buying just the clear polycarbonate cover that clips or glues over your existing red housing. This is cheaper ($60 to $120 per side) and faster, but the edges of your old red housing will still be visible from certain angles, and the fit can be loose if the housing has warped over time. Lens-only covers also tend to yellow or crack after several years of UV exposure, whereas a full assembly is easier to replace when that happens.

Most R34 owners choose the full assembly if they plan to keep the car long-term, because the result looks factory and the housing itself is new. If you are testing the look or on a tight budget, the lens-only route works fine for a year or two.

Removing the factory tail light housing

Open your trunk and look at the inside edge of the tail light area. You will see two or three Phillips screws holding the housing to the car body — these are visible from inside the trunk, not hidden under trim. Unscrew these completely and set them aside in a small container so you do not lose them.

Gently pull the housing toward the inside of the trunk. It will come free, but the wiring harness is still connected at the back. Do not yank it or you will tear the connector. Locate the wiring harness plug (a plastic connector with two or three wires) and press the small tab or clip on the connector to release it. The housing is now free and can be set aside.

If you are doing a lens-only replacement, stop here — you will reinstall this housing in a moment. If you are doing a full assembly, you can discard the old housing or keep it as a spare.

Installing a full assembly replacement

Take your new tail light assembly and position it so the mounting holes line up with the holes in the car body. The connector should face toward the inside of the trunk. Insert the screws by hand first to make sure they are threading correctly, then tighten them firmly with a Phillips screwdriver — do not overtighten, as you can crack the plastic housing.

Plug the wiring harness connector into the back of the new housing. You will hear or feel a small click when it seats fully. Gently tug on the connector to confirm it is locked in place. Turn on your headlights and test both the running lights (should be dim) and the brake lights (should be bright red). If either does not work, unplug the connector, wait five seconds, and plug it back in — sometimes a poor connection is the culprit.

Repeat the process on the other side of the car. Once both sides are installed and tested, you are finished.

Installing a lens-only replacement

With the factory housing still removed, clean the outside surface with a dry cloth to remove dust and debris. This helps the new lens adhere properly. Check the instructions that came with your lens cover — some use adhesive strips, some use clips, and some use both.

If your lens uses adhesive strips, peel the backing and press the lens firmly onto the housing, starting at one corner and working across to avoid air bubbles. Hold it in place for 30 seconds. If your lens uses clips, align the clips with the slots on the housing and press until you hear them snap into place.

Reinstall the housing by reversing the removal steps: plug in the wiring harness first, then position the housing and insert the screws. Test the lights before closing the trunk. Lens-only covers can take 24 hours to cure fully if adhesive was used, so avoid heavy vibration or trunk slamming for the first day.

Testing and troubleshooting after installation

Before you drive, sit in the driver's seat and turn on the headlights. Walk around the car and confirm that both tail lights glow dimly (running lights). Then press the brake pedal and confirm that both lights brighten significantly. If one side is dark or dim, turn off the car and check that the connector is fully seated.

If a light still does not work after reseating the connector, the bulb may be burned out or installed backward. Open the housing (if you did a full assembly, you may need to remove it again; if you did a lens-only swap, you can often access the bulb from inside the trunk) and check that the bulb is seated firmly and facing the correct direction. The bulb should have a small notch that aligns with a pin inside the socket — if it is rotated 180 degrees, it will not light.

If both lights work but one is noticeably dimmer than the other, the bulb on that side may be failing. Replace it with a new bulb of the same type (usually 1156 or 1157, depending on your R34 model year).

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to remove the bumper to change the tail lights?

No. The tail light housing is accessible from inside the trunk without removing the bumper. You only need to open the trunk and unscrew the housing from the inside.

Will clear tail lights pass a vehicle inspection?

This depends on your local regulations. Some jurisdictions require red tail lights and will fail a car with clear lenses. Check your local vehicle code or contact your inspection station before installing them.

Can I use clear tail lights with the factory bulbs?

Yes. Clear lenses work with standard brake light bulbs. The light will appear white or pale yellow instead of red, which is the intended look. Make sure the bulbs are the correct wattage for your R34 model.

How long do clear tail light lenses last?

Lens-only covers typically yellow or become cloudy after 3 to 5 years of sun exposure. Full assemblies last longer because the housing protects the lens better, but they will eventually degrade the same way. Replacement is straightforward once the original fails.

What if my new tail lights rattle or move when I close the trunk?

The mounting screws are loose. Open the trunk, locate the screws on the inside edge of the housing, and tighten them firmly. Do not overtighten — you only need them snug enough that the housing does not move.