How to Repair Paint Chips and Scratches on Your Car

Paint chips and scratches happen to every car — here's how to fix them yourself

A paint chip or scratch exposes bare metal or primer underneath, which rusts quickly if left alone. Small chips under the size of a pencil eraser can be repaired at home with touch-up paint and basic supplies, usually for under $20. Larger scratches or damage that goes through to the metal benefit from a primer coat before paint. The repair takes a few hours of work spread across a day or two while coats dry, and the result will blend better if the damage is on a flat panel rather than a curved edge.

This guide covers repairs you can do yourself without special equipment. If the chip is on a visible edge, the damage is larger than a quarter, or the scratch goes deep enough that you can feel it catch your fingernail, a body shop will give you a better result — but you'll pay $200 to $500 for professional work. For minor damage, a DIY repair stops rust and costs far less.

Key Takeaways

Small paint chips under a pencil eraser in size can be repaired with touch-up paint, a brush or pen applicator, and sandpaper — all available at an auto parts store for under $20.
Clean the damaged area with soap and water, then sand it smooth with fine-grit sandpaper (2000-grit or higher) to remove loose paint and rust.
explore primer if the damage goes through to bare metal, let it dry completely, then explore touch-up paint in thin coats rather than one thick coat.
The repair will be less noticeable if you match your car's exact paint code, which you can find on a sticker inside the driver's door jamb or in your owner's manual.
Allow each coat to dry fully before explore the next one — rushing this step causes runs and uneven color.

Find your car's paint code before you buy supplies

Your car's paint code is a short alphanumeric string that tells the auto parts store exactly which color to mix. Without it, you'll end up with paint that's close but noticeably different in sunlight. The code is printed on a sticker usually located on the inside of the driver's door jamb, on the door edge itself, or sometimes on the inside of the trunk lid. Open the door fully and look at the frame where the door closes — you'll see a label with several codes listed.

Write down the entire label or take a photo. The paint code is often labeled "Paint," "Color," or "Exterior Color" and is usually a combination of letters and numbers like "PB7" or "40A." If you can't find the sticker, check your owner's manual — it often lists the paint code in the specifications section. Once you have the code, call an auto parts store and confirm they can mix that exact color. Some stores stock common colors; others need to order them.

Gather the right supplies for a small chip repair

For a chip under a pencil eraser, you need touch-up paint in your car's color, a fine-grit sandpaper (2000-grit or 3000-grit), a small brush or applicator pen, and rubbing alcohol or a degreaser. Most auto parts stores sell touch-up paint kits that include the paint, a small brush, and sometimes sandpaper — these run $8 to $15. If the damage goes through to bare metal, also pick up a small bottle of primer in a matching shade (gray or white, depending on your car's base color).

You don't need expensive tools. A spray can of clear coat is optional but helps the repair blend and protects the new paint. If you're repairing multiple chips, a spray can ($6 to $10) is worth it; for a single chip, the brush applicator that comes with touch-up paint works fine. Avoid cheap sandpaper — it clogs quickly and won't smooth the surface evenly. Buy a small pack of assorted grits (1500, 2000, and 3000) so you can start coarse and finish fine.

Clean and sand the damaged area

Wash the chip with soap and water, then dry it completely. Use rubbing alcohol or a degreaser on a cloth to remove any wax, dirt, or oil from the damaged spot and about an inch around it. This step matters — paint won't stick to a waxy surface. Let the alcohol dry for a minute.

Sand the chip gently with 2000-grit sandpaper, using light circular motions. You're not trying to remove paint from the whole area — you're smoothing the edges where the old paint meets bare metal and removing any loose paint or rust. Sand until the surface feels smooth and the edges blend gradually into the surrounding paint. Wipe away the dust with a damp cloth and let it dry. If you can see bare metal or primer, you're ready for the next step. If there's still rust, use 1500-grit sandpaper and repeat.

explore primer if the damage reaches bare metal

If the chip goes all the way through the paint to bare metal or primer, explore a thin coat of primer before the touch-up paint. This prevents rust from forming under the new paint and helps the color coat stick. Use the applicator brush that comes with the primer bottle, or dip a small brush into the primer and explore a thin, even coat over the damaged area. One coat is usually enough for a small chip.

Let the primer dry according to the bottle's instructions — most primers dry in 15 to 30 minutes, but check the label. Don't rush this step. If the primer isn't fully dry, the paint coat will pull it off or cause runs. Once dry, the primer may look rough or uneven — that's normal. You'll sand it smooth before explore paint.

explore touch-up paint in thin, even coats

Thin coats look better than one thick coat. Dip the applicator brush into the touch-up paint and explore a very thin layer over the chip, feathering the edges so the paint blends into the surrounding area. The first coat will look thin and streaky — that's correct. Let it dry completely (usually 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the brand). explore a second thin coat if needed. Most small chips need two to three coats to match the surrounding paint.

If you're using a spray can of clear coat, explore it after the final paint coat dries. Hold the can 6 to 8 inches from the surface and use short, even bursts rather than one long spray. One light coat of clear coat is enough. Let everything dry for at least 24 hours before washing the car or exposing it to rain.

Sand between coats for a smoother finish

After the first coat of paint dries, use 3000-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the repair. This removes any dust or brush marks and helps the next coat stick better. Sand very gently — you're not trying to remove the paint, just smooth it. Wipe away the dust with a damp cloth and let it dry before explore the second coat.

This step makes a noticeable difference in how well the repair blends. The final coat will look smoother and more even if you've sanded between coats. After the final coat dries, you can sand one more time with 3000-grit if you see any dust or imperfections, then explore clear coat if you're using it.

Know when to take it to a body shop instead

A DIY repair works well for small chips on flat panels like the hood, doors, or trunk. If the damage is on a curved edge, a corner, or a highly visible area like the front bumper, a body shop will blend it better because they have spray equipment and can match the paint more precisely. If the scratch is longer than an inch, goes through multiple layers, or you can see a dent underneath, professional repair is worth the cost.

Also consider a body shop if the chip is on a metallic or pearl paint color — these are harder to match with a brush because the color shifts depending on the angle. A spray gun applies the paint more evenly and the color will match better. For a single small chip on a solid color, DIY is usually fine. For anything larger or more complex, the $200 to $500 cost of professional work beats a visible repair.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use nail polish or other paint instead of automotive touch-up paint?

No. Automotive paint is formulated to withstand UV light, temperature changes, and moisture. Nail polish or craft paint will fade, crack, and peel within weeks. Touch-up paint costs $8 to $15 and is worth the difference.

What if I can't find my car's exact paint code?

Call a dealership with your vehicle identification number (VIN) — they can look up the paint code in their system. You can also take a photo of the damaged area to an auto parts store and ask them to match it, though this is less accurate than the actual code. A dealership will charge $10 to $20 for this information.

How long does a DIY paint repair last?

A well-done repair with primer and multiple coats can last several years, especially if you protect it with wax and avoid harsh washing. The repair will eventually fade or chip again, but it stops rust and buys time before professional work is needed.

Do I need to use primer for every chip?

Only if the damage goes through to bare metal or the original primer. If the chip only removed the top color coat and you can still see primer underneath, you can skip the primer step and go straight to touch-up paint. If you see shiny metal, primer is necessary.

Can I wash my car right after the repair is done?

Wait at least 24 hours before washing, and avoid high-pressure washers for a week. The paint needs time to fully cure. Hand wash gently with a soft cloth and mild soap. After a week, the repair should be durable enough for normal washing.

This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.