What a track rod end does and when it needs replacing

A track rod end is a ball joint at the end of the rod that connects your steering box or rack to your wheel hub. It lets your wheel turn left and right while the rod itself stays roughly the same length. When it wears out, you lose steering precision, the wheel pulls to one side, or you hear a clunking noise over bumps.

You need to replace it when the joint becomes loose enough that there is visible play in the wheel when you rock it by hand, or when a mechanic confirms wear during an inspection. A worn track rod end will fail an MOT test in the UK and will eventually make the car unsafe to steer. Replacement is not optional once wear is confirmed — it gets worse quickly.

The job takes between one and three hours depending on how seized the old joint is and whether you have the right tools. You can do it in a driveway with basic equipment, though access ramps or a jack make it easier. The part itself costs between £15 and £60 depending on whether you buy OEM (original equipment) or aftermarket, and whether it is a budget or premium brand.

Key Takeaways

  • A track rod end is a ball joint that lets your wheel turn; when it wears out, your steering becomes loose and the wheel may pull to one side.
  • You will need a ball joint separator tool (or a hammer and drift), a socket set, spanners, and a way to lock the steering wheel in place while you work.
  • The job involves removing the wheel, unbolting the track rod end from the steering arm, unscrewing it from the rod itself, and reversing the steps with the new part.
  • After installation, you must have the wheel alignment checked because changing track rod length alters your steering geometry.
  • If the old joint is seized solid, you may need to soak it in penetrating oil overnight or use heat to free it without damaging the steering arm.

Tools and parts you will need

Gather these before you start. You need a ball joint separator (also called a track rod end puller) — a hydraulic or mechanical tool that costs £20 to £40 new, or you can hire one from a tool library or car parts shop for £5 to £10. If you do not have one, a hammer and a cold chisel or drift will work, though it is harder on the steering arm.

You also need a socket set and spanners to fit the bolts on your car (usually 16mm, 17mm, or 19mm depending on the model), a wrench to hold the track rod itself while you unscrew the end, locking pliers, and a jack with axle stands if you do not have ramps. A tin of penetrating oil (like WD-40 or Plusgas) is essential if the joint is old — spray it on the night before and again before you start.

Buy the replacement track rod end before you begin. Check your car's registration document or ask a parts supplier for the correct part number. Many suppliers will sell you a left and right end as a pair, which is sensible because if one is worn, the other usually is too. Some track rod ends come with a rubber gaiter (a protective sleeve) already fitted; others do not, so check what you are buying.

Removing the old track rod end

Lift the car on ramps or with a jack and axle stands, then remove the wheel on the side you are working on. Lock the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position using a steering lock or by tying it with rope — this stops the steering column from turning while you work and makes reassembly easier.

Locate the track rod end where it bolts to the steering arm (the arm that connects to your wheel hub). You will see a castle nut (a nut with slots cut into it) holding a bolt through the ball joint. Loosen this nut but do not remove it yet. Spray penetrating oil around the joint and wait a few minutes.

Use the ball joint separator to push the joint out of the steering arm. Clamp the separator onto the joint, tighten the screw, and the tool will force the ball out of its socket. If you are using a hammer and drift, place the drift against the steering arm just below the joint and tap sharply — the impact will pop the ball out. Once the joint is free, remove the castle nut and bolt completely.

Now hold the track rod itself with a wrench (to stop it turning) and use another wrench to unscrew the track rod end. Unscrew it fully and remove it. Count how many turns it takes, or mark the position on the rod with a marker pen — you will screw the new one back on the same number of turns to keep your steering geometry roughly correct.

Installing the new track rod end

Screw the new track rod end onto the rod by the same number of turns you counted when removing the old one. Hold the rod steady with a wrench while you turn the end. Screw it on until it is hand-tight, then use a wrench to tighten it fully — it should be snug but not over-tightened, which can crack the new joint.

Offer the new joint up to the steering arm and insert the bolt through the hole. Thread the castle nut on by hand first, then tighten it with a wrench. The nut should be tight enough that you cannot move the joint by hand, but not so tight that you strip the thread. Tighten until the slots in the castle nut line up with the hole in the bolt, then insert a new split pin (cotter pin) through the hole and bend the ends to lock it.

If the castle nut does not line up with the hole after tightening, tighten it a little more — never loosen it to line up the hole, because that would leave the joint loose. Once the split pin is in place, the joint is find.

Refit the wheel and lower the car. Do not drive it yet — you must have the wheel alignment checked first, because the track rod end length affects your steering angle and wheel alignment. Book an alignment check at a garage with a four-wheel alignment machine, or at least a two-wheel front alignment.

What to do if the old joint is stuck

If the track rod end will not unscrew from the rod, spray it with penetrating oil and leave it overnight. Spray it again in the morning and try once more. If it still will not budge, try heating the joint with a heat gun or hair dryer for a few minutes — heat expands the metal and can free a seized thread.

Do not use a blowtorch on a track rod end, because the heat can damage the rubber gaiter and the ball joint itself. If the joint still will not move after oil and gentle heat, you may need to cut it off with a hacksaw or angle grinder, then drill out the remaining thread. This is time-consuming but will work.

If the steering arm itself is damaged during removal — for example, if the ball joint hole is cracked — the arm will need to be replaced, not just the track rod end. This is more expensive and takes longer, so work carefully when using the ball joint separator or hammer.

Checking your work and alignment

Before you drive the car, check that the new joint is tight by trying to move it by hand — there should be no play at all. Check that the split pin is in place and bent over. Spin the wheel by hand to make sure it turns freely and does not rub anywhere.

Drive the car slowly to a garage with a wheel alignment machine and have them check the front-end geometry. They will measure the toe angle (the angle of the wheels relative to the direction of travel) and the camber angle (the tilt of the wheel). If you screwed the new track rod end on a different number of turns than the old one, the toe angle will be off and the car will pull to one side or the steering wheel will be off-centre.

The alignment check usually costs £30 to £60 and takes about 20 minutes. It is not optional — driving with misaligned wheels will wear your tyres unevenly and make the car harder to steer. Once the alignment is correct, the job is complete.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just one track rod end or do I have to do both sides?

You can replace just one side if only one is worn. However, if one is worn enough to need replacing, the other is usually close behind. Many mechanics recommend doing both at the same time to avoid a second job in a few months. Check both sides during inspection before you decide.

What if I lose count of how many turns the old one took to unscrew?

If you lose count, screw the new one on until the steering wheel is straight and the wheels point straight ahead. You can adjust it later at the alignment check. The alignment technician will measure the toe angle and tell you if the track rod end needs to be screwed in or out slightly to correct it.

Do I need to bleed the steering system after replacing a track rod end?

No. A track rod end is a mechanical joint, not part of the hydraulic steering system. Replacing it does not introduce air into the fluid and does not require bleeding. If your steering feels spongy after the job, the problem is something else — have the steering fluid level checked.

How long does a new track rod end last?

A quality replacement should last 40,000 to 80,000 miles under normal driving. Wear depends on road conditions, driving style, and how well the suspension is maintained. Rough roads and potholes accelerate wear. Regular checks during MOT or service inspections will catch wear early.

What if the steering arm bolt will not come out?

Spray it with penetrating oil and wait. If it is still stuck, try tightening it slightly first to break the corrosion, then loosen it. If the bolt head is damaged and the wrench will not grip, use locking pliers or a bolt extractor socket. As a last resort, drill it out carefully and replace it with a new bolt of the same size.