What you need to know before starting a blower motor replacement
The blower motor in your Suzuki Kizashi pushes air through your heating and air conditioning system. When it stops working or runs weakly, you lose climate control — and the motor itself usually cannot be repaired, only replaced. A replacement takes between two and four hours if you do the work yourself, or one to two hours at a shop (plus diagnostic time if the shop needs to confirm the motor is actually the problem).
The motor sits behind the glove box on the passenger side of the dashboard. You will need to remove the glove box, disconnect the blower housing, and unbolt the motor itself. The part costs between $80 and $180 depending on whether you buy OEM (Suzuki factory) or aftermarket, and labor at a dealership typically runs $150 to $300. If you have basic mechanical skills and the right tools, this is a job you can do at home.
Key Takeaways
- The blower motor is located behind the glove box on the passenger side and requires removing the glove box to reach it.
- You will need a socket set, screwdrivers, and possibly a panel removal tool to disconnect the dashboard trim without breaking clips.
- The motor is held in by three or four bolts and a single electrical connector that you disconnect before removal.
- OEM Suzuki motors cost more but carry a warranty, while aftermarket motors are cheaper but vary in lifespan and noise level.
- If the motor spins but produces no airflow, the problem may be a clogged cabin air filter or blocked ducts, not the motor itself.
Confirming the blower motor is actually the problem
Before you buy a replacement, verify that the motor itself has failed and not something else in the system. Turn on the ignition and set the climate control to the highest fan speed. If you hear the motor running but feel little or no air from the vents, check your cabin air filter first — a clogged filter blocks airflow even when the motor works fine. The cabin air filter on a Kizashi is located behind the glove box and is straightforward to inspect and replace.
If air flows normally at high speed but the motor makes a grinding or squealing noise, the bearings may be worn but the motor still functions. If the motor makes no sound at all and the fan does not spin when you set it to high, the motor has likely failed. You can also check the blower fuse (located in the interior fuse box under the steering wheel) to rule out an electrical issue — a blown fuse is a $2 fix before you spend $100 on a motor.
Tools and parts you will need
Gather these items before you start: a socket set (metric, 8mm to 12mm), a Phillips and flathead screwdriver, a panel removal tool or plastic pry bar, and a flashlight. You will also need the replacement blower motor itself. For a Suzuki Kizashi (2010–2014), an OEM motor is part number 74110-62J00 or 74110-62J10 depending on your model year. Aftermarket motors from brands like Remy or Motorcraft are usually cheaper and fit the same way.
Have a small container or bag ready to hold the bolts and clips you remove — they are straightforward to lose. A helper is useful but not required; the job is mostly accessible from one side of the vehicle. Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before you begin work to avoid electrical shorts.
Removing the glove box and accessing the blower motor
Open the glove box fully and look inside the top edge. You will see two clips or bolts holding the box to the dashboard frame — one on each side. Remove these bolts with your socket set or screwdriver. The glove box may also have a stop strap (a small rod) that prevents it from falling open too far; this straightforward lifts out of its socket and does not need to be unscrewed.
Once the bolts are out, gently pull the glove box toward you and down. It will come free from the dashboard. Behind it, you will see the blower motor housing — a plastic box with the motor mounted inside. The housing is held to the dashboard frame by three bolts visible from below and behind the opening where the glove box was. You may need to angle your body or use a flashlight to see them clearly.
Disconnecting and removing the motor
Before you unbolt the housing, locate the electrical connector on the back of the motor. It is a single plug with a wire harness running to it. Press the release tab on the connector (usually a small plastic clip on the side) and pull the connector straight out. This disconnects the power to the motor.
Now unbolt the blower housing from the dashboard frame using your socket set. There are typically three bolts — one at the top, one at the bottom left, and one at the bottom right of the housing. Remove all three and set them aside. The housing will come free. Inside the housing, the motor itself is bolted to the plastic case with two or three bolts. Remove these bolts and slide the motor out of the housing. The motor may have a rubber seal or gasket around it; if it is cracked or dried out, replace it with the new motor or buy a replacement gasket.
Installing the new blower motor
Slide the new motor into the housing, aligning the bolt holes. Insert and tighten the bolts that hold the motor to the housing — do not over-tighten, as you can crack the plastic case. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually sufficient. Connect the electrical connector to the new motor by pushing it straight in until you hear or feel it click into place.
Position the housing back into the dashboard opening and insert the three bolts that hold it to the frame. Tighten these bolts snugly but not forcefully. Reinstall the glove box by sliding it back into place and tightening its bolts. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Testing the new motor and troubleshooting
Turn on the ignition and set the climate control to high fan speed. You should hear the motor spin and feel strong airflow from the vents within a few seconds. If the motor does not run, check that the electrical connector is fully seated and that the blower fuse has not blown again. If the motor runs but is very noisy (grinding or squealing), it may be defective — contact the seller or manufacturer about a replacement under warranty.
If airflow is weak even with the new motor running, the cabin air filter may still be clogged, or there may be a blockage in the ductwork. Replace the cabin filter and test again. If airflow is still weak, the ducts may need cleaning or there may be a separate issue with the climate control blend door, which is beyond the scope of a motor replacement.
When to take it to a shop instead
If you are not comfortable working under the dashboard or do not have the tools, a Suzuki dealership or independent mechanic can do this job quickly. Dealerships typically charge $200 to $400 total (parts and labor), while independent shops may charge $150 to $300. Some shops offer a warranty on the motor and labor, which can be worth the extra cost if you want peace of mind.
If your vehicle is still under warranty, check your warranty terms before doing the work yourself — some warranties are voided by non-dealer repairs. If the blower motor fails again within a few months of replacement, the problem may be electrical (a short in the wiring harness or a failing climate control module) rather than the motor itself, and a shop can diagnose this more quickly than you can.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just the motor without removing the whole housing?
No. The motor is bolted inside the plastic housing, and you must remove the housing from the dashboard to access the motor bolts. You cannot reach them from outside the housing. The housing itself does not need to be replaced unless it is cracked or the seal is damaged.
What if the blower motor works on some fan speeds but not others?
This usually points to a failing blower resistor (also called a blower speed control module), not the motor itself. The resistor controls which speeds the motor runs at. If the motor works at high speed but not at medium or low, the resistor has likely failed and needs replacement. This is a separate, cheaper repair than replacing the motor.
How long does a replacement blower motor last?
OEM Suzuki motors typically last 8 to 12 years or longer if the cabin air filter is changed regularly and there are no electrical faults. Aftermarket motors vary widely — some last as long as OEM parts, while others may fail within 2 to 5 years. Buying from a reputable brand and checking reviews before purchase can help you avoid a short-lived motor.
Do I need to recharge the air conditioning after replacing the blower motor?
No. The blower motor is separate from the air conditioning refrigerant system. Replacing the motor does not affect refrigerant charge or require any AC service. If your AC was not cooling before the replacement, it will still not cool after — that is a separate issue.
What is the cabin air filter and why does it matter?
The cabin air filter traps dust, pollen, and debris before air enters the cabin through the vents. A clogged filter blocks airflow and makes the blower motor work harder, which can shorten its lifespan. Replace the cabin filter every 12,000 to 15,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. This is a five-minute job that costs $15 to $40 and can prevent blower motor failure.