A 6.7 Powerstroke long block is the core engine assembly without fuel injectors, turbocharger, or external accessories

A long block for a 6.7 Powerstroke diesel engine includes the cylinder block, pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft, camshaft, cylinder head, and valve train — essentially everything bolted to the block itself. It does not include the fuel injection system, turbocharger, alternator, water pump, or intake and exhaust manifolds. You install those components yourself or have a shop transfer them from your old engine.

Ford produced 6.7 Powerstroke engines from 2011 onward in Super Duty trucks. A long block is typically your choice when the internal engine damage — a cracked block, scored cylinder walls, bearing failure, or piston damage — is too severe to repair but the external parts are still good. It costs less than a complete engine and less than a full rebuild if you can reuse your fuel system and accessories.

The alternative routes are a short block (block and rotating assembly only, no head), a complete engine with everything attached, or an engine rebuild. Each has different labor costs and timelines depending on what you already have and what a shop can salvage.

Key Takeaways

  • A long block includes the cylinder block, head, and internal parts but not the turbocharger, fuel injectors, or external accessories you'll need to transfer or buy separately.
  • You need a long block when internal engine damage like bearing failure or a cracked block makes repair uneconomical but your fuel system and accessories are still usable.
  • Long blocks cost less than complete engines but require labor to install external components, so total cost depends on what you're reusing and what a shop charges for assembly.
  • Sourcing options include Ford dealerships, diesel engine rebuilders, salvage yards, and online engine suppliers, each with different warranties and lead times.
  • Installation requires removing your old engine, transferring or installing fuel injectors and turbocharger, and reconnecting all fuel, coolant, and electrical lines.

What's included and what you supply yourself

A long block arrives as a bare assembly. It has the block, head, pistons, rods, crank, cam, timing gears, and valve covers. It does not have a turbocharger, fuel injectors, glow plugs, alternator, water pump, oil cooler, fuel filter housing, or intake and exhaust manifolds. You either transfer these from your old engine or purchase them new.

If your old engine failed due to internal damage but the turbo and fuel system are sound, you remove those parts and bolt them onto the long block. If the turbo is also worn or damaged, you'll need a replacement — OEM or aftermarket. The same applies to the fuel injectors: if they're in good condition, they transfer over. If they're carbon-fouled or leaking, replacement is necessary.

Some shops include a core charge in the long block price, meaning you return your old engine block and they credit part of the cost back. Others sell the long block outright. Clarify this before purchase because shipping a core back adds time and logistics.

When a long block makes sense versus other options

A short block includes only the cylinder block, pistons, rods, and crank — no head. It's cheaper than a long block but requires you to remove and reinstall the cylinder head yourself or pay a shop to do it. Choose a short block if your head is undamaged and you want to save money on parts; choose a long block if the head is also compromised or you want fewer steps during installation.

A complete engine arrives with the turbo, fuel injectors, alternator, and most accessories already bolted on. It costs more than a long block but requires less labor because fewer components need transfer or installation. Complete engines make sense if your accessories are damaged, if you want a warranty that covers everything, or if you want the fastest turnaround.

An engine rebuild means a shop disassembles your old block, replaces worn or damaged internal parts, and reassembles it. Rebuilds take longer — typically four to eight weeks — but cost less upfront if the block itself is salvageable. If the block is cracked or the cylinders are too worn to bore, a rebuild is not possible and a long block or complete engine is your only path.

Where to source a 6.7 Powerstroke long block

Ford dealerships stock long blocks and can order them if not in inventory. Lead times vary from a few days to several weeks depending on demand. Dealership long blocks come with a Ford warranty, typically 12 months or 12,000 miles, and are may provide to be new or factory-remanufactured. Prices are higher than other sources.

Diesel engine rebuilders specialize in Powerstroke engines and often have long blocks in stock or can build one to your specifications. They typically offer warranties of 12 to 24 months and may include core charges. Lead times are often shorter than dealerships because they work from a standing inventory. Call ahead to confirm availability and delivery options.

Salvage yards and online engine suppliers source used or remanufactured long blocks at lower prices but with more variation in warranty coverage. Some offer 30-day or 90-day warranties; others sell as-is. Shipping costs and lead times are longer. This route works if you're budget-constrained and willing to accept higher risk.

Labor and installation costs

Installing a long block requires removing your old engine, which typically takes 8 to 12 hours of shop labor. The shop then transfers your turbo, fuel injectors, alternator, water pump, and other accessories to the new long block — another 4 to 8 hours depending on condition and complexity. Reconnecting fuel lines, coolant hoses, electrical connectors, and exhaust components adds another 4 to 6 hours. Total labor ranges from 16 to 26 hours at a typical diesel shop rate of $100 to $150 per hour.

If your turbo or fuel injectors need replacement during the swap, add the cost of those parts plus labor. A new OEM turbo for a 6.7 Powerstroke costs $800 to $1,200; a set of fuel injectors runs $400 to $800 depending on whether you choose OEM or aftermarket. A shop may discover additional damage — a damaged fuel filter housing, a cracked intake manifold, or a failed water pump — during disassembly, which extends both timeline and cost.

Some shops offer a flat rate for long block installation if you provide the long block and all accessories. Others charge hourly. Get a written estimate before work begins and ask what is included: does it cover hose replacement, new gaskets, or just assembly?

Warranty and what it covers

Warranty terms vary by source. A Ford dealership long block typically carries a 12-month, 12,000-mile warranty covering defects in materials and workmanship. A diesel rebuilder may offer 24 months or 24,000 miles. Used or salvage long blocks often come with 30 to 90 days or are sold as-is with no warranty.

Warranty coverage usually applies only to the long block itself — the block, head, and internal parts. It does not cover damage caused by improper installation, contaminated fuel, or failure of accessories you transferred from your old engine. If a fuel injector fails after installation, the warranty on the long block does not cover it; the injector's own warranty (if any) does.

Read the warranty document carefully. Some warranties are void if the engine is modified, tuned, or used for towing beyond manufacturer specifications. Others require proof of regular oil changes and maintenance. Ask the supplier whether the warranty transfers if you sell the truck.

Timeline from order to running engine

A Ford dealership long block typically ships within 3 to 7 days if in stock; special orders may take 2 to 4 weeks. A diesel rebuilder with inventory can often ship within 1 to 3 days. Salvage and online suppliers vary widely — 3 days to 2 weeks depending on location and whether the part is in stock or being sourced.

Once the long block arrives, installation at a shop takes 3 to 5 business days if no unexpected damage is found and all accessories are ready. If the shop discovers a cracked manifold, a failed water pump, or other damage during disassembly, add 1 to 2 weeks for parts and rework. Total elapsed time from order to a running engine is typically 2 to 6 weeks.

If you're in a hurry, a complete engine or a dealership remanufactured unit may be faster because fewer components need transfer. If cost is the priority and you can wait, a salvage long block with a local rebuilder handling installation may take longer but cost significantly less.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install a long block myself if I have mechanical experience?

Yes, if you have engine removal and installation experience, proper tools, and a lift or hoist. The long block itself is straightforward to bolt in, but transferring the turbo, fuel system, and all electrical connectors requires precision. Many DIY builders do this work, but mistakes in fuel line routing or electrical connections can cause starting problems or fuel leaks. A shop can inspect your work afterward if you want verification.

What's the difference between a new and remanufactured long block?

A new long block is built from new parts and has never been installed in a truck. A remanufactured long block is a used block that has been disassembled, inspected, worn parts replaced, and reassembled to like-new condition. Both carry warranties, though new blocks typically have longer coverage. Remanufactured blocks cost less and are more common from dealerships and rebuilders.

Do I need to replace the oil and coolant after installation?

Yes. Before starting the engine, fill the long block with fresh oil and coolant. Run the engine briefly to circulate fluids, then drain and refill again to remove any debris from the manufacturing or installation process. This step prevents contamination from damaging the new internal parts.

What if my fuel injectors or turbo are damaged when I remove them?

If the turbo is damaged, you must replace it — a damaged turbo cannot be transferred to the new long block. Fuel injectors can sometimes be cleaned or rebuilt, but if they're cracked or leaking, replacement is necessary. Budget for these parts when planning the swap, and ask the shop to inspect them during disassembly so you know what needs replacement before the long block arrives.

Is a long block better than a complete engine for resale value?

A complete engine with full warranty and documentation is easier to sell because the buyer knows everything is covered. A long block requires the buyer to trust that accessories were properly transferred and installed. If you're planning to keep the truck, the choice between long block and complete engine depends on cost and timeline. If resale is a factor, a complete engine or a dealership remanufactured unit may be worth the extra cost.