Where to sell a broken 1970 Dodge Charger
A non-running 1970 Dodge Charger has value even in its current condition, but where you sell it matters for price and speed. Classic car buyers, parts dealers, and salvage yards all purchase vehicles like yours, and each pays differently depending on what they plan to do with it.
Specialty classic car dealers and online marketplaces like Hemmings, Bring a Trailer, and eBay Motors reach collectors willing to pay more for a project car with documented history. Local salvage yards and auto recyclers pay less but remove the car when ready, which works if you need space or cash fast. Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist attract local buyers who may restore the car or part it out, and you avoid shipping costs.
The price you receive depends on the Charger's condition, rarity, and what the buyer intends to do with it. A collector restoring an original 1970 model pays more than a salvage yard buying it for scrap metal weight. Before listing, photograph the engine bay, undercarriage, interior, and any rust or damage clearly — buyers of non-running cars expect transparency about what they are purchasing.
Key Takeaways
- Classic car marketplaces like Hemmings and Bring a Trailer attract collectors willing to pay more for a project Charger than local salvage yards.
- Salvage yards and auto recyclers offer the fastest sale but the lowest price, and they handle pickup themselves.
- The sale price depends on the Charger's original specifications, rust severity, engine condition, and whether key parts are present or missing.
- Honest photographs of damage, rust, and the interior help you attract serious buyers and avoid disputes after sale.
- You will need the vehicle title to sell to a dealer or private buyer; salvage yards may accept vehicles without clear title depending on state law.
Documenting the car's condition for buyers
Buyers of non-running cars expect detailed information about what is broken and what remains intact. Before you list the vehicle, walk around it with a camera or phone and photograph the engine bay with the hood open, the undercarriage (use a flashlight), all four sides of the body, the interior seats and dashboard, and any visible rust, dents, or missing parts.
Write down what you know about why it stopped running — did the engine seize, did it straightforward not start after sitting, is the transmission stuck, or is the fuel system clogged? If you have service records, the original purchase paperwork, or documentation of past repairs, include photographs of those too. Collectors value original documentation, and it can justify a higher asking price.
Note the Charger's original color (check under the hood or inside the door jamb for the factory paint code), the engine size, transmission type, and whether it has the original interior or has been modified. If you do not know these details, say so — guessing wrong damages your credibility with serious buyers.
Pricing a non-running 1970 Dodge Charger
The price for a non-running 1970 Charger varies widely based on the specific model, engine size, rust level, and whether the car is complete or missing major parts. A 440 Magnum or 426 Hemi model in solid condition commands more than a base 318 engine car with severe rust. Check recent sales on Hemmings, eBay Motors, and Bring a Trailer to see what similar non-running Chargers have sold for in the past three to six months.
Salvage yards typically pay based on the vehicle's weight in scrap metal plus any value for usable parts. A 1970 Charger weighs roughly 3,500 to 3,800 pounds depending on the model, and scrap steel prices fluctuate. Call three to five local salvage yards for quotes — they will ask about rust severity, whether the engine turns over, and whether the car is complete.
If you list privately, price 10 to 15 percent below comparable running vehicles of the same year and model, adjusted downward further for rust, missing parts, or unknown history. A non-running project car is worth less than a running one, but a complete original is worth more than a stripped shell. Be prepared to negotiate; most buyers of project cars expect to haggle.
Title and legal requirements for the sale
You will need a clear title in your name to sell the Charger to a private buyer or a classic car dealer. If the title is lost, contact your state's Department of Motor Vehicles to request a duplicate — the process takes one to three weeks and costs between $10 and $50 depending on your state.
If the car has a lien (the bank or a lender still owns it), you cannot sell it until the lien is paid off. Contact the lender to find out the payoff amount and whether they will release the title once you pay. Some lenders allow you to pay off the loan and receive the title at closing; others require payment before the sale can proceed.
Salvage yards in most states can purchase vehicles without a clear title, though they may pay less or require you to sign a bill of sale stating you are the owner. Check your state's salvage yard regulations before approaching one without a title. If you sell privately without a title, the buyer assumes the risk of not being able to register the car, which is why most private buyers will not purchase without one.
Arranging pickup and transport
A non-running 1970 Charger cannot be driven to the buyer, so you will need to arrange towing or transport. Salvage yards typically include free pickup as part of the sale — they send a flatbed truck to your location and remove the car. Private buyers and dealers may or may not cover transport; clarify this before you agree to a price.
If the buyer does not cover transport, you can hire a car hauler through services like uShip or by calling local towing companies. Costs vary by distance but typically range from $300 to $1,500 for a single vehicle moved across a state or region. Get quotes from at least two haulers before committing, and ask whether they require the car to be in running condition or whether they can tow a non-running vehicle.
Before the car leaves your property, take a final photograph showing the odometer reading (if visible), the VIN on the dashboard, and the overall condition. This protects you if a dispute arises about the car's condition after delivery. Have the buyer or hauler sign a bill of sale confirming the condition and the agreed price.
Avoiding common mistakes when selling a project car
The most common mistake is overpricing. A non-running 1970 Charger is worth significantly less than a running one, and rust, missing parts, and unknown history lower the price further. Research comparable sales before you list, and be realistic about what buyers will pay for a car they cannot drive home.
Another mistake is providing incomplete information. Buyers of project cars expect to find surprises, but hiding known problems — severe rust in the floor pans, a cracked block, a missing transmission — damages trust and can result in the buyer backing out after inspection. Transparency about what is wrong and what works builds confidence and often justifies a higher price than vague listings do.
Do not agree to hold the car for a buyer without a deposit. Project car sales can fall through when the buyer realizes the scope of the work required or cannot find financing. Require a non-refundable deposit of at least 10 percent of the agreed price to hold the vehicle, and set a important date for the buyer to complete the purchase.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sell a 1970 Charger without a title?
Salvage yards in most states will purchase a car without a title, though they may pay less. Private buyers and dealers typically will not, because they cannot register the car in their name. If your title is lost, contact your state's DMV to request a duplicate before listing the car.
What is a 1970 Dodge Charger worth if it does not run?
Price depends on the engine size, rust level, and whether major parts are present. A complete original with a 440 or 426 Hemi engine in solid condition may sell for $5,000 to $15,000 to a collector, while a rusted base model with a 318 engine might bring $1,500 to $4,000. Salvage yards typically pay $500 to $2,000 based on scrap weight and usable parts.
Do I need to disclose that the car does not run?
Yes. Buyers of project cars expect the car to be non-running, but you must be honest about why it stopped and what condition the engine, transmission, and frame are in. Hiding known problems can result in the buyer backing out after inspection or pursuing legal action for misrepresentation.
Should I fix the car before selling it?
Usually no. The cost to repair a 1970 Charger often exceeds what you will recover in the sale price. Buyers of project cars expect to do the work themselves and factor repair costs into their offer. Spending money on repairs before sale typically results in a lower return than selling as-is.
How long does it take to sell a non-running classic car?
Salvage yards can remove the car within days. Private sales through online marketplaces typically take two to eight weeks, depending on how well you price it and how active the market is for 1970 Chargers in your region. Specialty classic car auctions may take longer but reach more serious buyers.