Install your license plate by securing it to the front and rear of your vehicle with bolts, washers, and nuts — a task that takes about 10 minutes and requires only basic tools you likely already own.
License plates arrive with your vehicle registration documents, either already mounted or loose in an envelope. If yours came loose, you will need to attach them yourself before driving legally. The process is straightforward: locate the mounting holes on your vehicle's bumper or frame, line up the plate holes with those mounting points, and fasten everything with hardware. Most vehicles require two plates (front and rear), though some states require only a rear plate.
You do not need a mechanic or special equipment. A socket wrench or adjustable wrench, a screwdriver, and the bolts and washers that came with your registration packet are all you need. The entire job takes longer to read about than to do.
Key Takeaways
- License plates come with bolts, washers, and nuts in the registration envelope — check there first before buying hardware.
- Most vehicles have pre-drilled mounting holes on the front and rear bumpers or frame, usually marked with small indentations or existing holes.
- Tighten bolts firmly but do not over-tighten, which can crack the plate or strip the threads on plastic bumpers.
- Some vehicles (particularly older trucks or custom builds) may not have front mounting holes, in which case check your state's requirements about rear-only plates.
Gather your tools and hardware
Open the envelope that came with your registration documents. Inside you will find two license plates (unless your state requires only a rear plate), and a small packet containing bolts, washers, and nuts. These are the exact size and type you need — do not substitute with hardware from your garage, as oversized bolts can crack the plate.
Locate a socket wrench or adjustable wrench that fits the bolts (usually 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch), a screwdriver (Phillips or flathead, depending on your vehicle), and a flashlight if you are working in low light. That is the complete toolkit. If your registration packet does not include hardware, contact your state's Department of Motor Vehicles — they will send it or tell you the exact specifications to buy at a hardware store.
Find the mounting holes on your vehicle
Stand in front of your vehicle and look at the lower bumper or frame area. You will see either two small holes already drilled, or two small indentations or raised bumps marking where holes should go. These are your mounting points. Run your finger across them to confirm they are actual holes or depressions — do not confuse them with dents or damage.
If you see no holes or marks on the front bumper, your vehicle may not have front mounting provisions. Check your vehicle's owner manual or contact your state's DMV to confirm whether your state requires front plates. Some states require only rear plates, and some vehicles (particularly trucks or those with custom bumpers) are manufactured without front mounting hardware.
The rear mounting points are usually in the same location — lower center of the rear bumper or frame. Locate those holes the same way. If either the front or rear has no holes and your state requires plates there, you will need to have holes drilled by a mechanic or body shop, which typically costs $20 to $50 per plate.
Align and insert the bolts
Position the first license plate in front of the mounting holes. Line up the two holes in the plate with the two holes on your vehicle. You may need a helper to hold the plate steady, or you can use painter's tape or masking tape to temporarily hold it in place while you work.
Insert one bolt through the top hole of the plate, add a washer, then thread it into the hole on your vehicle. Do not tighten it yet — just hand-tighten it enough to hold the plate in place. Then insert the second bolt through the bottom hole, add a washer, and hand-tighten it as well. This two-point temporary hold keeps the plate from shifting while you finalize the installation.
Tighten the bolts securely
Using your wrench, tighten the top bolt first. Turn it clockwise until it is snug — you should feel resistance, but do not force it. A good test is to try to wiggle the plate with your hand; it should not move. Then tighten the bottom bolt the same way. Alternate between the two bolts if you need to tighten further, which keeps pressure even and prevents the plate from tilting.
Do not over-tighten. Excessive force can crack the plastic plate or strip the threads on plastic bumpers, leaving you unable to remove the plate later without damage. If you hear cracking sounds or feel the wrench suddenly spin freely, you have gone too far — back off slightly and leave it snug but not forced.
Repeat for the rear plate
Move to the rear of your vehicle and repeat the entire process: locate the mounting holes, position the plate, insert and hand-tighten both bolts, then use your wrench to tighten them securely. The rear plate usually sits lower on the bumper or frame than the front, so take a moment to confirm you have the right holes before you begin.
Once both plates are installed, step back and confirm they are straight and centered. They should sit flat against the bumper or frame with no gaps or tilting. If one plate is crooked, loosen the bolts slightly, reposition it, and tighten again.
Verify your installation is complete
Walk around your vehicle and visually inspect both plates. They should be firmly attached, readable, and not hanging loose or at an angle. Gently try to move each plate by hand — neither should shift or rattle. If either plate moves, tighten the bolts a bit more.
Check that your license plate lights (if your vehicle has them on the rear) are not blocked by the plate or mounting hardware. The plate should sit close to the bumper but not so close that it covers lights or reflectors. Your vehicle is now legal to drive, and your registration is complete.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the bolts that came with my registration do not fit the holes?
This is rare but can happen with older vehicles or custom bumpers. Measure the bolt diameter and the hole size, then take that measurement to a hardware store and ask for bolts one size up or down. Bring a washer and nut so the staff can test the fit. Most hardware stores will let you try bolts in their bins before you buy.
Can I use screws instead of bolts?
No. Screws are not designed to hold the vibration and movement that a license plate experiences while driving. Bolts with washers and nuts are the standard because they distribute pressure evenly and stay tight. Using screws will result in a loose or falling plate.
Do I need to remove the old plate before installing the new one?
Yes. If your vehicle already has a plate mounted, remove it first by unbolting it. Keep the old plate — your state may require you to return it to the DMV, or you may need it for records. Check your registration documents or contact your state's DMV to confirm what to do with the old plate.
What if my vehicle has no mounting holes at all?
Contact a local body shop or mechanic and ask them to drill mounting holes for a license plate. This typically costs $20 to $50 per location (front and rear). Bring your license plates with you so they can measure and position the holes correctly. Some shops will install the plates for you as part of the service.
Is there a specific way the plate should face or sit?
The plate should sit flat and parallel to the ground, centered on the bumper or frame. The numbers and letters should be upright and readable from a normal viewing distance. If your plate is tilted or angled, loosen the bolts, reposition it, and tighten again. Crooked plates can result in citations in some jurisdictions.